November 2006

Since a long time I have this feeling of restlessness inside of me. Even though I am not sure, I certainly have to do something. A few years I have been taking antidepressants because it seems that my life is getting out of control. For more than 30 years I have been working for the police and I have this burnt-out feeling.

While I have this feeling the poem "Stages" by Hermann Hesse is in my head all the time

... be ready heart for parting ...

At this stage my brother-in-law lends me the book „I am off“ by the German author and entertainer Hape Kerkeling, which he had been given for his birthday.

This book has inspired me to take upon the 800 km long Route of St. James.

It is my wish to come to terms with the fear of my own death, to appreciate the daily things as a gift, to find my way back to myself and perhaps a chance to come to terms with my depression.

I have prepared everything carefully:

numerous lists regarding my equipment, the daily planned stages and on top of that I tried to learn Spanish by self-education for four months.
 

Saturday, April 14th 2007 (1st day)
Leaving Home

The day I have been patiently longing for has come!

Tonight my beloved family will take me to the station.

Our friends Wolfgang and Uschi said Goodbye and gave to me this diary to write down all my experiences.

On our way home yesterday the following words were sprayed on the pavement

"Vaya Con Dios".

Thank you!
 

Sunday, April 15th 2007 (2nd day)
from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Auberge Orrison

The night-train took me from Paris to Bayonne. Through a beautiful landscape with rivers, hills, meadows and forests, I arrived at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the early morning.

I have the right to be happy.
 

Monday, April 16th 2007 (3rd day)
from Auberge Orrison to Roncesvalles (17,3 km)

I set off after breakfast at 8 a.m. After two and half never ending hours uphill the weather conditions became worse and worse. Snow, ice, fog and only 30 °F. Somehow it was fantastic to be all alone, even though now and then it gave me the creeps due to the fact that I hadn’t seen any way marks for ages.

After each bend I thought this must be the top, but it wasn’t ... and then I made it ... I defeated the highest peek (Col de Lepoeder 4,700 ft) and I got to the first “mile-stone”.

I continued walking downhill through snow and fog, and guess what: in the beginning this was much harder than going uphill. In the end I was rewarded by this beautiful view on to Roncesvalles in the sun.

First break, ideal to have a smoke. It took 10 minutes to get my damp lighter working and than my cigarette was damp.

I reached Roncesvalles at about 1.15 p.m. I think this is enough for today. I went to the beautiful church, took off my backpack and enjoyed a few minutes of contemplation. Wow, my head and mind was simply empty and nothing more from had to be done. Even though I was thinking about my beloved that I left back home, I have the right to fulfil my wishes.

After my visit to the church I went to the pilgrim’s office, received a stamp and gathered a place to sleep for € 5 in a dormitory for approximately one hundred people.

The pilgrim’s hostel was ok, and in the restaurant next door I got a pilgrim’s menu for € 8 (three courses and red wine inclusive).
 

Tuesday, April 17th 2007 (4th day)
from Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña (26,5 km)

Where did I end up today?

At 6 a.m. I woke up by the wonderful singing of "Hallelujah". I didn’t sleep half of the night. How can one sleep in a dormitory with about one hundred people with probably half of them snoring.

I got a quick wash, packed my backpack and left at 6:15 a.m. All by myself in the dark, but it was fantastic to experience the sunrise and the awakening of nature.

Around noon I walked through mud and boulders for more than three hours. My super hiking boots stood the test with brilliant performance.

I cleaned them in the Rio Arga and cooled my swollen feet. Oh, what a surprise? Two blisters! And one on each foot! I didn’t fancy Zubiri very much, so I continued the next two hours to Larrasoaña, where I arrived at 3 p.m.

I registered myself at the local pilgrim’s accommodation (called refugio). I must be stupid, once again thirty people in a small room. I had a quick shower in one of the two showers, gave my clothes a wash and “battled” for my bed. After that I took a short walk through the village. Why? Because I was looking for a restaurant for a tasty pilgrim’s menu, and now back to the beginning:

Where did I end up today?

Wednesday, April 18th 2007 (5th day)
from Larrasoaña to Uterga (32 km)

Oh what a night, I can’t stand this any more. Snoring, creaking beds and selfish pilgrims chatting all night. I did not sleep a wink.

Today I will be sleeping in a guest house.

But in the evening I will find out that a single bedroom has its price. It will cost me € 45 as there are no single bedrooms, without dinner and breakfast. As I complained about the price I got the answer that I can share a bedroom with twenty others for € 10. No thank you, as I walked 32 km today, I pleased myself with a fantastic dinner for € 12 (salad, roast lamb, chips and never ending wine).

At 5:45 a.m. the night was over. I considerately packed my backpack and started off at daybreak while the rest of the pilgrims were still asleep. What a beautiful morning. I started with my torch to find the beginning of the way, but the eye gets used to the darkness very quickly. I had to look out for all the frogs crossing my way all the time.

At about 8 a.m. I took my first break to read the SMS our friend Uli sent: “Hi Micky, I wish you a lot of strenght, energy, fun, and spiritual knowledge on your way!" This message and the experience of the past days brought tears into my eyes.

Walking through Pamplona (capital of the region Navarra) took 1:15 hours.

My todays’ aim was Cizur Menor, where I arrived at 12.30. And now? I didn’t like staying here very much, but to Uterga it is 3 1/2 more hours to walk with no refugio in between. Furthermore, I have to defeat an altitude of 840 ft., then downhill of more than an hour over boulders. I take the risk, cool my feet and change the socks.

I continued across Alto del Perdón (2,400 ft), a never-ending walk uphill. I walk through the blazing sun without any shade and shade is my greatest wish at the moment. After five minutes in the middle of nowhere, I see a tree with a bench and some shade. On the bench next to me sat a lady from Germany with her 15 year old dog. Both seemed to be very happy. As you are not allowed to take dogs into a refugio, she previously researchedand made a list of all hotels and guest houses where dogs are allowed. I hope that the dog will survive this long way. On the hill I passed windmills and metal-sculptures and after that a short but severe descent.

Thursday, April 19th 2007 (6th day)
from Uterga to Lorca (22,4 km)

Today I started at 8:30 a.m. and it was a very hot day without any shade. From Uterga I walked via Obanos to Puente la Reina. I had my breakfast there and took a photo of this beautiful bridge.

I continued via Mañeru and Cirauqui to Lorca. In the refugio "La Bodega del Camino" I was the first pilgrim to pick his bed. A very nice refugio and the dormitory only had six bunk beds.

Today’s stage I dedicated to our friend Klaus and it was a very hard day!
 

Friday, April 20th 2007 (7th day)
from Lorca to Los Arcos (29,8 km)

My motto today is "letting go".
I won’t mention sleepless nights anymore.

I got up at 5:45 a.m. and I was ready to go at 6:15 Uhr. I left the refugio and found out that I forgot my pilgrim’s stick, but I had already closed the door. Sorry my fellow pilgrims that I woke you up, but my stick is more important. Yes, I know, I am very selfish.

After two hours it was the first time to “let go” in the village of Estella/Lizarra. This is the place where I posted a jacket, a pair of shoes, a pair of trousers, a t-shirt and one of my guides “poste restante” to Santiago, and this meant 3 kg less weight to carry.

I continued via Irache,

Azqueta to Villamayor de Monjardin, after that for 2:45 hours through meadows, fields, and vineyards without any shade. After 1 1/2 hours, I was longing for some shade and ten minutes later my wish was fulfilled. Under a tree I had a beautiful siesta. Following that I continued on to Los Arcos, arriving about 4:30 p.m., and I couldn’t walk any further. It was said that the Albergue de la Fuente (Casa de Austria) was a very good refugio. I don’t know, but I think it is a question of taste ...
 

Saturday, April 21st 2007 (8th day)
from Los Arcos to Navarrete (42,2 km)

I think the motto "letting go” or “to drop a thought” will be mine until the end of my pilgrimage. Today I slept very well until about 4 a.m., but I preferred to stay in my warm sleeping bag until 6. At 6:45 a.m. I set off. Amazingly most of the pilgrims were already on the way very early today. My motto today is to wish peace to other people, and I did that very often in different languages to the amazement of others.

                                                                     

   After I left Sansol, Torres del Rio and Virgen del Poyo behind I took my first break at Viana. This is the place where I met Jan and Andreas from Dessau. We already met a day before in Lorca and had very nice conversations, very pleasant companions, a good attitude, just nice.

I wish I had the possibility to know Jan closer.

Both adjusted my backpack and we shared the rest of the day. I left time and distance behind and at Logroño Andreas bought a bottle of wine. After we finished the wine we didn’t feel like continuing our way.

At Parque la Grajera we laid in the grass and none of us was fond of taking a photograph, so we just laid there.

At 7 p.m. we got to Navarrete, but the refugio was completely full. Andreas and Jan ordered a taxi to go to Ventosa, as they were commended a very nice refugio there. I told them that I am very sorry, but that I can’t do that as I promised myself to walk the whole distance. But on the other hand I wasn’t able to continue to walk to Ventosa. We said goodbye, thanked each other for the beautiful day ... and unfortunately I never saw them again. Another lesson of “letting go” for me.

After we parted, I thought that maybe I would get a bed at the refugio being just one person, but no chance. Two very kind Spanish pilgrims from Barcelona, Juan and Gabriel, were very helpful and assisted in finding a private place to sleep. It was very clean and quiet and I only paid € 10.

At 8:30 p.m. I was ready, unpacked my backpack, had a shower, did my daily washing and I was absolutely shattered. Very close to the refugio, I found an exclusive restaurant and they offered a pilgrim’s menu for 8,50 (salad, stew, cheese and beer). All of a sudden Ivan and Chantal enter the restaurant. For the past couple of days, we have been meeting up with each other now and then.

I feel sorry that my French is not so good. Once again, letting go, good night and bye-bye ...
 

Sunday, April 22nd 2007 (9th day)
from Navarrete to Azofra (23 km)

What a wonderful Sunday, I am soooo happy.

At 2.45 p.m. I am sitting in a Spanish bar at Azofra and drinking a large shandy (beer with lemonade). Hombre, it is so noisy because all of the natives are playing cards and everyone is shouting and swearing.

Yesterday was a little bit too much for me. For a couple of days, temperatures are in the 80’s. Yesterdays’ refugio was ok, only three beds occupied and very quiet.

All the people you pass are wishing "Buen Camino", which means "have a good way" or they would wave to you. Nature seems to get louder and more intensive day by day. The idea of walking the St. James Way was one of the best decisions I made up to now in my life. The first week has passed and I made the first 200 km.

After I left Navarrete I got to the famous valley of the nice little stone figures. Every passing pilgrim would build little figures from the small stones found here and each would have it’s own personal meaning. I just enjoy the beautiful view.

 Somehow I think that I get a little bit back from nature each day, I thought I’d lost. Yesterday I left Navarra in the basque region and now I am in the region La Rioja.

Roland from Aachen is the head of the refugio "La Fuente". I gathered a place to sleep. I share the room with the three elderly ladies Renate, Brigitte and Hildegard and they are also from Mönchengladbach. Hildegard wanted my private address, but I didn’t like the thought. I also meet the very talkative two ladies from Austria everyday and it seems that I can’t get rid of them. I walk as much as I can, but they seem to be like glue. Everywhere I stay, both are already there. What is the sense of this? Never mind. I must recall every day that respect and tolerance are my mottos. Christian from Germany, who accompanies both ladies, is quite ok. I met him later in Santiago.

 For the rest of the day I will relax.

Oh, I forgot something, my colleagues Fisch and Micha called me and told me that they arrested “my” fugitive. It is somehow funny, although I was looking for this man for about a year, it didn’t really bother me. For the moment, what is most important to me is how the love between my love and I will develop in the future ... and I really miss him.
 

Monday, April 23rd 2007 (10th day)
from Azofra to Villamayor del Rio (33,5 km)

Tuesday, April 24th 2007 (11th day)
from Villamayor del Rio to Agés (32,7 km)

Wednesday, April 25th 2007 (12th day)
from Agés to Burgos (26 km)

Thursday, April 26th 2007 (13th day)
from Burgos to Hontanas (30,7 km)

Friday, April 27th 2007 (14th day)
from Hontanas to Boadillo del Camino (29,7 km)

Saturday, April 28th 2007 (15th day)
from Boadillo del Camino to Carrión de los Condes (25,5 km)

Sunday, April 29th 2007 (16th day)
from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza (18 km)

Monday, April 30th 2007 (17th day)
Calzadilla de la Cueza

Tuesday, May 1st 2007 (18th day)
from Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún (22,8 km)

Wednesday, May 2nd 2007 (19th day)
from Sahagún to Reliegos (30,7 km)

Thursday, May 3rd 2007 (20th day)
from Reliegos to León (23,6 km)

Friday, May 4th 2007 (21st day)
from León to Villar de Mazarife (24,3 km)

Saturday, May 5th 2007 (22nd day)
from Villar de Mazarife to San Justo de la Vega (31,1 km)

Sunday, May 6th 2007 (23rd day)
from San Justo de la Vega to Rabanal del Camino (26,6 km)

Monday, May 7th 2007 (24th day)
from Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada (27,2 km)

Tuesday, May 8th 2007 (25th day)
from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (26,5 km)

Wednesday, May 9th 2007 (26th day)
from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (27,4 km)

Thursday, May 10th 2007 (27th day)
from O Cebreiro to Sarria (28,5 km)

Friday, May 11th 2007 (28th day)
from Sarria to Portomarin (22,1 km)

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